The story of Majuli unfolds in epic proportions. In 1691, a great flood washed over Assam and began the making of a new island. The sea-like Brahmaputra changed course, sliced Majuli away and squeezed it from the other side with its tributary Kherkutia. Majuli had become an island, one of the largest riverine islands in the world, with its own little islands, streams and hills.

The Brahmaputra keeps changing course, eroding or reshaping the land, and life in Majuli strives to follow suit. From an area of 1255 square km in 1901, the island had eroded to a third by 2000. The world, mostly rural, has over 240 villages with a mix of communities. The locals stoically move to higher reaches every monsoon when their land is flooded and return to cultivate it later in the year.

Majuli is famous for its satras – Vaishnav monasteries, with unique traditions and festivals. And for the ceremonies and music of the Mishing people, who migrated here from Arunachal.

Base yourself in Kamlabari town, the most tourist-friendly area, or in Garhmur, taxis can be hired, you can also hire a car at Jorhat and then bring it across to Majuli by boat. Buses ply regularly to all areas but roads can be bad.

The Satras

The satras in Majuli predate the birth of the island. In the early 16th century, Assamese Vaishnavite reformer and saint Shankardev established the first Satra at Belguri, the western part of Majuli, which no longer exists thanks to erosion. Soon after, other satras came up, and Majuli became the hub of these unique cultural monasteries – different satras have their religious ceremonies and dance and drama performances. Many of them are storehouses of valuable assets, jewellery and manuscripts from the royal ahom days. The main satras you can visit are
Kamlabari Satra: Once displaced by soil erosion, it lost many old manuscripts, but has a lot to offer. The Ankia Naat drama and Saali Nitya dance are famous.

Dakhinpat Satra – Known for its Ras Leela
Auniati Satra – Its Pal Naam ceremony, Dashavatar Nitya and Puppet shows are quite extraordinary.
Garhmur Satra – Known for its Ras Leela, a huge wooden pair of Garuda birds and old utensils
Bengenaati Satra – The Natual and Ojapali dances and its Fakua festival are famous.
Shamaguri Satra – wood, bamboo and cane masks.

Other Attractions – Visit Kumhar Gaon to see potters at work without the wheel, Ask around if any village is having a bhaona performance – a rural religious theatre that has stories from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Puranas
Mishing villages have a rich and vibrant culture, but they especially come alive during two festivals – Ali Aai Ligang and Parag. Try the famous Mishing rice beer, apong.