Kohima

Kohima, surrounded by hills, is a beautiful city. But it’s beautiful only at nights and early mornings. During the day, it becomes the busy capital of Nagaland  - then traffic and smog more or less eclipse the charm of the mountains. Kohima town was set up by the British but all the colonial structures were destroyed during the Second World War. It was a crucial theatre in the Anglo-Japanese engagement – it is here that the Japanese invasion of India was stopped. So much of the old city got destroyed in the war and a modern city came up in the same place. Nagaland has been beset with political turbulence for many decades, and this has discouraged tourism in the state. Even so, getting around is generally safe for tourists but avoid going into less frequented areas.

To See and Do

Kohima has a  War Cemetery that is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, which takes care of 2,500 cemeteries all over the world to commemorate those who died in the two world wars. Sir Edwin Lutyens who designed New Delhi, was one of the principal architects involved in establishing its design.

The red-roofed Catholic Cathedral on Aradurah Hill is the most prominent landmark in Kohima. An interesting, geometrical building, it’s supposed to be the largest cathedral in the North-East.
What’s most fun though is taking a walk in the Super Market. It’s narrow climbing alley lined with shops that end up in the huge Kohima Local Ground, where traditional wrestling competitions are held. You can pick up packets of dried wild apples and gooseberries from here. The State Museum is worth a very quick dekko.

Khonoma (20km) is a village of the Angami tribe who put up stiff resistance to British forces in the 19th century. There is a memorial to that and a pretty church to see. Go as early as possible or people will have already left for the fields. DzoukoValley  (25km) is probably the most satisfying trek in these parts. Roughly half of that distance has to be negotiated on foot. What lies at the end is a valley full of lilies and rhododendrons in season.

Wherever you go in Nagaland, lookout for birds. You will see none, not even crows. It’s considered cool for a Naga male to bring them down with a single stone or a shot so they all practice a lot. The result is a sky like Singapore’s emptied of all birds.

Taxis here can make your holiday quite expensive. The minibuses are cheaper, of course, and somehow a lot more fun. For a trip outside town, state Transport buses are also an option but always check the time of the last return.

Around Kohima

Tuophema (41 km) - Tuophema is an eco-tourist village about 1-2 hours from Kohima.  This is a complex of lovely Cottages on top of the hill. Go with advance notice only.

Mokokchung(154 km) - Mokokchung is a pretty town with none of the big-city drawbacks of Kohima. The AoNagas, once known for the practice of headhunting, belong to these parts. The villages of Ungma and Longkhum are interesting excursions.